Da Vinci Ristorante Italiano

Quality is assumed, beyond question, he says. Running a neighborhood restaurant that could compete against the finest dining in the biggest of cities can only begin after that foundation exists.

When he opened Da Vinci Ristorante Italiano five years ago, at 6455 S. Fry Road, he offered no menu. The place was small enough to make custom dishes for every table.

"I would simply ask them 'Do you want no legs, two legs, or four legs,'" he said, alluding to fish, chicken or other meat.

As the clientele grew, he introduced a chalkboard of selections, and later a rotating list of dishes on a menu. These are not "specials," he insists, merely suggestions.

Salmassi finds reward in the intimacy of the restaurant. His 22 years in the industry have taken him across the globe, including studying at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, earning a degree from Vieux-Bois in Geneva, Switzerland in restaurant and hotel management, cooking with Emeril Lagasse, and owning successful restaurants in places as diverse as Kemah and Johannesburg, South Africa.

"Every time people sit down in those chairs, it gives me the chance to do what I love to do," Salmassi said.

His passion has cultivated a loyal group of customers in Katy and he knows most of them by name. But the experience has taken some getting used to for others.

Da Vinci's limited size and hours—5 p.m. to 10 p.m. (or whenever the last costumer leaves)—means that it is only able to serve 100–150 customers per night. When it is booked, the restaurant turns away reservations. On an average Friday or Saturday night that might mean 100–200 people; on Valentine's Day, it means many times more, Salmassi said.

Though he doesn't like turning people away, Salmassi said he is not interested in expanding—except maybe to add a modest veranda to accommodate another 6 or 7 tables out in front. The restaurant has only 17 tables now.

Keeping it small, maintains the quality, Salmassi said. The restaurant does not have walk-in freezers. Instead, he visits markets every two days at to shop for fresh produce, seafood and meats.

Salmassi had a nearly identical restaurant in Kemah for about 10 years. In 2008, however, the storm surge from Hurricane Ike, sent boats moored nearby crashing through the windows

Afterwards, he moved farther inland and chose Katy because he liked the feel of the community.

It is now easiest to find him in the restaurant's dining room talking with guests. He is perhaps most in his element wearing his white chef's uniform cooking at their table-side.

Recently, after preparing fresh caramel and fruit to drizzle over an array of desserts for one patron's birthday, he learned of another birthday in the house.

"It's her birthday, get the Champagne and sword," he called to one of his waiters. "And turn on the Stevie Wonder."

The Chef

Born in a town on the border of France and Spain, Salmassi is the son of a doctor. He said his father, a cardiologist, would often come home either joyful or despondent, depending on whether he had saved or lost a patient.

Salmassi was encouraged to become a doctor, too, but did not want to experience the ups and downs he had seen his father endure.

He completed a year of dental school but ultimately hated it. Like many other students, however, he had worked in hotels and restaurants during his schooling.

"Food brings people together," he said.

Da Vinci Ristorante Italiano

6455 S Fry Rd., Ste. 100

Katy (281) 392-2115

Hours: Mon.–Sun., 5 p.m.–10 p.m.