West Austin bistro returns to Italian cuisine roots

A longtime Clarksville eatery returned to its Italian roots last fall.

Cipollina, a West Austin bistro that opened in 1999, converted from deli service to a full-time restaurant four years ago, General Manager Zach Zellmer said. The first menu consisted mostly of Italian cuisine, although the menu broadened over the years as different chefs added their own specialties.

Executive Chef Matthew Grimes got his start at the restaurant last year after working for co-owners Ron Weiss, Peggy Weiss and Jeffrey Weinberger at Shoreline Grill and Jeffrey's Restaurant. Upon his arrival, Grimes repurposed the Cipollina menu to include almost exclusively Italian dishes made using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The menu debuted last Labor Day weekend to much success, Zellmer and Grimes agreed.

"We didn't have an identity before. Now we can say, 'Yeah, we're Italian,'" Grimes said. "Still, we're in Texas, and we use a lot of Texas ingredients to try to stay as authentic as we can to our own locale."

One menu mainstay, pizza, remains a popular choice among patrons. About five months ago, Grimes said he revised the dough recipe to create a pizza that stays fresher longer, making it ideal for Cipollina's many to-go orders.

"The dough holds up a lot better than before," he said.

Most Cipollina customers hail from the West Austin area, Zellmer said, whether it is the longtime patrons who still remember the restaurant's to-go service or those regulars who sit at the wine bar each afternoon.

"We've always been a neighborhood spot," Zellmer said. "We're trying to expand farther out while staying a welcoming, warm place to be."

Being in business 15 years, the restaurant has watched many competitors emerge in and around the area. While not located directly downtown, Zellmer and Grimes admit it is easy for potential customers to compare the restaurant to some of its newer, more centrally located counterparts.

"I think at first we were trying to compete with downtown Austin, but recently we've realized we do much better keeping that neighborhood feel," Grimes said, adding that on-site parking helps make Cipollina more attractive to potential customers.

Italiano specialistico

Cipollina unveiled its new Italian menu during Labor Day weekend last year. Feedback from longtime patrons and newcomers alike has been 99 percent positive, General Manager Zach Zellmer said.

Dinner options include:

  • Antipasto and Insalata e Zuppe: Appetizers and salads
  • Primi and Pizze: Pasta entrees and pizzas
  • Secondo and Contorno: Bigger entrees and side dishes

Cipollina, 1213 W. Lynn St., 512-477-5211, www.cipollina-austin.com, Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.–9 p.m.