Harold Marmulstein, executive chef of Salty Sow in East Austin, said he grew up in the kitchen.

His father owned a bakery in upstate New York, where Marmulstein worked alongside his three older brothers, and later a luncheonette counter, where Marmulstein was a short-order cook.

“It was fun,” he said of cooking. “It wasn’t like work.”

Marmulstein went on to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America and worked for a series of fine-dining restaurants around the country.

Things changed after 2008, however.

“Fine dining really took a dip after the recession,” Marmulstein said. “A lot of chefs, not just myself, went with a more casual approach.”

High-quality, accessible dishes are the backbone of the menu at Salty Sow, which opened in 2012.

“I describe it as real food,” he said.

The restaurant staff relies on “basic principles of braising and slow cooking” and seasonal ingredients sourced locally whenever possible, he said.

“I think the food’s very approachable,” Marmulstein said. “You can eat light, or you can eat heavy.”

In 2016 the restaurant hosted first lady Michelle Obama while she was visiting Austin.

“We had Secret Service all over the place, and the street [outside] was all lined up, probably 200, 300 people outside just trying to get a glimpse of her,” Marmulstein said.

Salty Sow’s daily happy hour—every day from 4:30-6:30 p.m. with most appetizers and drinks under $6—has helped solidify the restaurant as a neighborhood gathering space as well as a destination for out-of-town guests.

“You can come and have a snack, a nice drink and walk home,” Marmulstein said.

Like its menu, Salty Sow’s layout allows diners to choose their own experience: Sit inside for a more formal dinner, or grab a table under the covered patio and share appetizers from the happy hour menu.

“Each area’s different, so you get some funky environments within the restaurant,” Marmulstein said. “It’s a fun place to eat.”

1917 Manor Road, Austin
512-391-2337
www.saltysow.com
Hours: Sun.-Thu. 4:30-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4:30-11 p.m.