Earlier this year, former Austin sushi chef Jason Liao brought a new concept to Sugar Land. Preview Modern Seafood and Cuisine features an intimate dining atmosphere and brings to the table fresh, exotic seafood from around the world.

"What's different about us is [our restaurant] is the first of its kind in town," Liao said. "We want to keep it intimate. We understand hospitality, being accessible and having a relationship with our guests."

Liao, a Houston native, began his career in the restaurant industry when he was 21 years old as an apprentice at Umi Sushi Bar and Grill in Austin. From there, he advanced quickly and was made head chef at another restaurant two years later. In 2012, Liao decided it was time to go out on his own.

"I was fed up working for other people," he said. "When we started this [concept], we didn't know what it was going to be. I initially wanted to open in Austin, but something called me back home."

Today, at age 26, Liao has achieved his dream. His restaurant has gained significant traction throughout Houston in recent months, and Liao said he now wants to be sure everyone in his own backyard knows what he and his Preview Modern Seafood team are trying to do.

"[Preview Modern Seafood is] already a critically acclaimed restaurant," Liao said. "You cannot successfully run a critically acclaimed restaurant without your local support. We have proven ourselves as an avant-garde restaurant, but we want to be a place where all the locals can come for a weeknight or weekend out."

For Liao, service is a No. 1 priority. He handpicked his team of managers, waiters and like-minded chefs from restaurants around the state. The team works together to bring distinctive dishes to guests.

"We all come from restaurants that were built to turn tables," Liao said. "This is a different animal entirely. This is cuisine. We are creating a new market, and we are coming at it from a chef's perspective."

Orders for exotic seafood—such as mako shark, Haikkido scallops and Hawaiian snapper to name a few—are placed several times a week at Preview, Liao said. Preparation styles vary, but one thing remains constant—simplicity.

"We are about small plates here, so that way people can try more," Liao said. "We are trying out more modern concepts and are not defined by any one cuisine. All of our flavors are pretty clean. That is where the Japanese influence comes in."

Preview's menu is small but features a wide selection of exotic fish and preparation styles. The menu changes constantly, sometimes as often as twice a month, but several items, such as the lobster bisque with miso ($17), have become menu staples.

"This restaurant is a blank canvas," Liao said. "People come here for an experience, and it is my place to just blow their minds night after night—and that is what I love to do."

Liao said he wants to build Preview into an empire with new concepts around the Greater Houston area.

"I just want to leave my mark," he said. "I want to expand throughout [the city] with different things."