Wink Restaurant and Wine Bar encourages slowing down, enjoying the experience

Eventually, the hair salon next door vacated, and Paul and Scruggs said they saw an opportunity: Why not turn it into a wine bar where guests could cool off, have a glass of merlot and wait for their table?

That was back in 2003, when lifelong Austinites Paul and Scruggs said they successfully fended off the naysayers who took issue with the constantly changing menu, the relaxed pace of servers and the small portions.

Those attributes were exactly what made the Wink concept so great, the owners said. And although they said they have had to work to remain relevant among Austin’s highly competitive restaurant scene, they are doing well enough to keep any negative Yelp reviewers at bay, they said.

[caption id="attachment_238379" align="alignright" width="220"] Hanger steak is a staple item at Wink. This dish is made with Yukon gold potatoes, trumpet mushrooms and sauteed Swiss chard.[/caption]

Wink was conceived from what Paul called the “slow-food” movement—marked by Provencal-influenced dishes that take time to prepare; a five- or seven-course tasting menu complete with wine pairings; and a small, intimate place to share it all.

“In the end, we really turned the whole [traditional American restaurant] model on its head,” Scruggs said.

Although the menu features staples such as fish, foie gras and beef, dishes are prepared somewhat differently each day, so the only constant is the use of the freshest produce and meats, Scruggs and Paul said.

“I can’t do the same dish day-in and day-out for years on end,” Scruggs said.

Wink offers “philosophical clarity,” Paul said. It is a place to put away one’s cell phone and have a conversation over good food and good wine, he said.

“We’re throwing a dinner party every night,” he said.