Much of the magic happens behind the scenes in the kitchen of the cozy Italian eatery on a corner in the Wolf Ranch Town Center.

Milano Trattoria sous-chef Ronnie Salter said the restaurant’s key to continued success is in the attention to detail and extra time the team takes to ensure quality Italian food.

“It’s coming in real early to make the ravioli fresh,” he said. “We make all the fillings fresh—the bread, pizza dough and sauce, desserts—everything is made here.”

The cooks also care about plating a dish well for a pleasing presentation, Salter said.

Owners John and Roxanne Braga opened Milano Trattoria about seven years ago.

Born in Brazil and raised in Italy, John’s passion for Italian cuisine is a lifelong one. Before moving to Texas, he spent time working as a chef in Italian eateries in New York and New Jersey.

Many regulars insist if Milano Trattoria was in a more prominent location than a shopping center, lines would constantly be out the door, according to Salter.

Different lunch and dinner specials are available daily along with the regular menu. One of Salter’s favorites to make is a tortellini pancetta.

On the first weekend of each month, the team makes ossobuco—veal shank with sauteed vegetables.

The recipe requires several hours of cutting vegetables and other considerable prep work. It is then simmered for such a long time that it is only available until sold out, Salter said, adding many regular diners call ahead and say they plan to come in for ossobuco. That way, the team has an idea of how much to make and save for those on the call-ahead list.

For something sweet, Salter recommended the light and fluffy zabaione or even butternut squash ravioli.

“You can order it with brown butter sage, or we can do it in a white sauce with cranberries and walnuts on top,” he said.