Chef Eric Goldner was inspired as a kid by his uncle Henry, who owned restaurants in Manhattan and Long Island. It was in those restaurants that Goldner grew passionate about the craft of cooking, engaged in every aspect of the restaurants from washing dishes to managing the front counter to sampling the food.
“My uncle said I was eating his profits instead of working,” Goldner said.
Goldner said he learned how to combine flavors and cook with passion.
From studying economics at University of Wisconsin and earning his Master of Business Administration in Houston, Goldner spent 25 years in the corporate world as a project manager and management consultant in various industries. But he aspired to be a chef someday, so during that 25 years he taught himself the French culinary arts.
“It was my dream to follow in my uncle’s footsteps and have my own restaurant,” he said.
He said he considers French techniques to be the foundation of how to cook. When he teaches others how to cook, he teaches them French techniques, not just the recipes.
“I like teaching technique, so they can execute whatever type of cuisines they want,” he said. “French culinary technique is considered the apex of the culinary world.”
French techniques include braising, sauteing and terrine—chopping meat into tiny pieces and serving it in a special dish—he said. In addition, soups and sauces are an integral part of French cuisine.
“French cuisine is considered the foundation for every sauce in the world,” he said.
Goldner recognized that French restaurants typically fall into two categories: mid- to high-price bistro type dining and low-end pastry shops that serve salads.
“There wasn’t a concept that was really good food in a casual setting in a family-oriented environment where everybody feels comfortable,” he said.
All of the recipes on the menu at Allô are Goldner’s inventions, from the chicken liver pate to rotisserie chicken to the mussels. He said he uses a lot of garlic and parsley in his dishes as well as caramelized leeks in the butter. Everything is prepared in-house.
Goldner relies on herbes de Provence, a mixture of dried herbs typical of southeast France, and spices he calls “warming,” such as cinnamon and nutmeg, to add complementary flavors to his dishes.
Goldner said he has garnered loyal guests in the third year Allô French Rotisserie has been open. He said French food has a reputation of being heavy and pretentious, but he does not want guests to be intimidated by the French menu.
“It’s one of my greatest joys to see little kids enjoying French food,” he said.
He said hospitality as well as the menu at his restaurant provides a concept that is welcoming to guests.
“There’s a concept in the French culinary world—mise en place [or] everything in its place,” Goldner said. “That goes from the preparation to why every ingredient is in the dish.”