New leadership, menu highlight fall changes

An established downtown Austin eatery is retooling in response to the city's rapidly changing restaurant landscape.

Bess Bistro, having first opened in 2006 as a French bistro with elements of New Orleans–inspired flavors, recently welcomed a new executive chef and a new general manager to help unveil a new fall menu, which debuted Sept. 8.

"Bess Bistro was good, but people weren't pushing down the door the way we wanted them to," said new General Manager AJ Eck, who came to Bess Bistro after one year with LaV, a food truck turned-brick-and-mortar restaurant that opened earlier this year in East Austin.

The transition at Bess Bistro has been similar to her experience at LaV, Eck said.

"I kind of came in viewing this as another new opening," she said. "We already had a great menu, but I'm able to bring a fresh perspective."

Adding to that perspective is new Executive Chef Roman Murphy, whose past experience includes stints at Austin restaurants Jeffrey's, Congress and Peche. Murphy said he has helped "elevate" many of Bess Bistro's signature dishes by adding Asian, French and Spanish elements.

"I want to bring this restaurant to fit in with all the other new restaurants [in Austin]," Murphy said. "I'm trying to help us stay ahead and stay relevant."

The shift at Bess Bistro has been subtle and more than one year in the making, Director of Operations Justin Raiford said. Before Eck's and Murphy's arrivals, Raiford at the beginning of the year helped the restaurant secure a 1-acre certified organic farm immediately outside the city—much to the delight of his new executive chef.

"The farm is great to have at my disposal," Murphy said, explaining how he is able to craft menu items based on what is available each season. "I like to cook things I like to eat because the more of your soul you put in your food, the more it comes across that way to the customer."

Eck is also working with Murphy to prepare a beverage program that complements many of his menu items. There are also plans, Eck said, to pair some menu items with certain drinks. She also plans to incorporate more boutique spirits and rotating wines to the bar's menu.

"I want people to come here and have something they can't order anywhere else in town," she said.

Sister restaurant

Nearby Walton's Fancy & Staple, 609 W. Sixth St., serves as the sister restaurant and daily bread provider of Bess Bistro.

Both restaurants are operated by the same company, which is co-owned by actress Sandra Bullock.

Walton's Fancy & Staple first opened nearly 50 years ago as a Westlake floral shop. The flower operation soon dwindled, and by 2009 the business relocated downtown to become a bakery.

Bullock's sister, baker Gesine Bullock-Prado, helped oversee the initial transition, said Justin Raiford, director of operations for Bess Bistro and Walton's Fancy & Staple.

Both businesses benefit from their unique historical venues, Raiford said. Bess Bistro is located in the Stratford Arms Building, which was constructed in 1918, he said, while the Walton's building—long occupied by Fischer Brothers Grocery—was built as early as 1896.

The classic setting at Bess Bistro makes the restaurant an attractive work environment, General Manager AJ Eck said.

"I walked in, and said, 'I want to work in this room every night,'" Eck said. "This place has so much character."

Bess Bistro, 500 W. Sixth St., 512-477-2377, www.bessbistro.com, Hours: Sun.–Thu. 4:30–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 4:30–11 p.m.