Famous chili and live music draws regulars to restaurant

Sitting among venues of Grapevine's wine country is an establishment that showcases a pride for cuisine and an environment reminiscent of the southern flair found only in Texas.

Tolbert's co-founder Frank X. Tolbert Sr., a columnist writing on his Texas travels, gathered his love and knowledge for Texas history and cuisine and ventured to open a restaurant with his son, Frank X. Tolbert Jr., in 1976. A year later, daughter Kathleen joined the family business.

The Tolbert trio began their journey in downtown Dallas, where they moved six times before finally settling on Grapevine's Main Street during Main Street Days in 2006.

"It was either don't open and lose the business, or go ahead and open to the crowds," Kathleen Tolbert Ryan remembers. "It was trial by fire."

Exposed brick walls, a full bar and stage have transformed what used to be a general store into a restaurant, and multiple historic photographs adorn the walls. Southwestern cuisine packs the menu with flavors and ingredients that yell yee-haw. Chili is the staple dish that has placed Tolbert's on the map. With its own section on the menu, you can try it in a bowl, in a chili pie, over a hot dog, atop a burger or even inside a burrito. Last summer, Texas experienced 32 days of 100-degree temperatures, but Tolbert's chili remained in high demand.

Tolbert Sr. even co-founded the annual Terlingua Chili Cook-off near Big Bend National Park. The cook-off will celebrate its 46th year this November.

Chili isn't the only claim to fame for the establishment; the invention of donkey tails can be credited to Tolbert's founders as well. All-beef hot dogs stuffed with cheddar cheese, wrapped in a flour tortilla, then lightly fried may sound strange, but is this restaurant's southern spin on an American classic. Ryan said they have also received compliments on their green enchiladas from visitors traveling from as far as New Mexico, and the shrimp fajitas are her personal favorite. The Tolbert's head chef, Miguel Codero, has been with the restaurant for eight years, and his culinary skills are credited to his mother, who is a chef in Chihuahua, Mexico.

"Hispanics are the first Texans," Ryan said. "I know my Texas history."

Tolbert Jr. serves as an adviser to his sister, who with her husband, Paul Ryan, continue to keep her father's restaurant and his love for Texas alive. Ryan believes her father left them a legacy, and so the establishment has connections to the founder. Tolbert Sr. would have been 100 years old July 27, 2012, and the Tolbert's building just turned 100, too.

Ryan says she enjoys working as a hostess because she gets to develop relationships with her regulars. One regular, Craig Haptonstall, hosts a workshop for his company a few times a year. The workshop always starts at Tolbert's, Haptonstall said.

"Grapevine is a little, small town in the middle of everything," Haptonstall said. "I think [Tolbert's] is a great representation of how I think of Texas and Grapevine."

Tolbert's Classics

• Donkey Tails: Two all-beef hot dogs stuffed with cheddar cheese, wrapped in flour tortillas, then lightly fried. Served with Tolbert's salsa and mustard sauce, and a shot of chili on the side ($7.99)
• Shrimp Fajitas: Grilled shrimp, onions, bell peppers and pico de gallo served on a sizzling platter, with flour tortillas, guacamole and sour cream ($14.99)
• Original Texas Red: Chili served with cheese and onions, topped with a chili pepper ($4.99 cup, $7.49 bowl, $8.99 super bowl)

Live music

Tolbert's is host to different bands throughout the week with musical groups of all kinds entertaining guests. Friday night, however, is a party, attracting a following that enjoys having fun. In the mood? There are plenty of acts coming up.

• May 18–19 (9 p.m.): The Coppertones
• May 22 (8 p.m.): Jason Elmore Acoustic Solo
• May 23 (8:30 p.m.): Big Mike's Box of Rock
• May 24 (8:30 p.m.): Holland K Smith

Tolbert's, 423 S. Main St., Grapevine, 817-421-4888, www.tolbertsrestaurant.com

• Hours: Sunday–Thursday: 11 a.m.–9 p.m.
• Friday–Saturday: 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m.