A casual way of saying "hello" in the French language, All might also be the perfect expression to describe All French Rotisserie in Vintage Park. Owner and chef Eric Goldner said the restaurant was born out of a desire to make French food approachable and accessible to all customers.

"Typically French restaurants are going to be a little more intimidating or expensive, but French food doesn't have to be that way," Goldner said. "French food normally is [served in] small places, family-operated places that [offer] really good, really fresh ingredients made with care and offered in a very casual setting."

All provides a counter-style service for lunch, including a varied selection of sandwiches and salads, such as the French-style hamburger topped with Brie, onions, mixed greens and a special sauce.

However, the heart of the traditional dishes on the menu are the rotisserie meats, Goldner said, cooked in an imported oven and available every day.

Not only does All offer a more accessible menu, the French rotisserie offers a relaxed setting, Goldner said.

"We just have a contemporary setting that juxtaposes traditional elements like old movies and French-style music with a more contemporary dcor, which bridges the two together," he said.

The restaurant opened more than a year ago in October 2013. Goldner, an East Coast native, said his family operated restaurants when he was younger.

"That's where I kind of got my foundation, the basis for my cooking," Goldner said. "That's how I learned how to obtain the great flavor combinations."

Being a native New Yorker from Manhattan not only prepared Goldner to learn to cook but also immersed him in the restaurant business.

"It's a good background especially in this industry," Goldner said. "It was my uncle [Henry] who was my biggest inspiration because he was a fabulous chef."

After receiving an economics degree from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and his Master of Business Administration from the University of Houston-Clear Lake, he spent 25 years in consulting while concurrently studying culinary arts on his own.

"I used that as a foundation for all the things that I cooked, and I helped a lot of friends who had restaurants or catering operations get their businesses off the ground," he said.

Goldner joined a group that opened the Hubbell & Hudson Bistro in the Woodlands in 2008 and helped operate the restaurant as its director during its first few years. However, he ultimately wanted to open his own restaurant.

Timing played a significant role in Goldner's decision to open All.

"[My kids are] in college, and it was a good time to make the transition," he said.

Although the restaurant appeals to those looking for a casual meal, Goldner said All still provides the quality of French cuisine some customers expect from a French restaurant.

"We have a lot of French clientele that tout our restaurant as being authentic, that it reminds them of their grandmother's cooking, which is the best compliment you can ever give me," he said.

Customer favorites

• All burger: Half-pound French-style burger with brie, bacon, tomatoes, red onions, mixed greens brioche bun and All's secret sauce ($13)
• Rotisserie of the Day: Customer's choice of sauce and sides, including Pork Loin on Mondays, braised short ribs Tuesday, herb pesto lamb on Wednesday and Saturday and braised brisket on Friday ($14-$15)
• New York Strip Steak Au Poivre: Seared 12 oz. New York strip topped with cognac peppercorn sauce ($29)
• Basque mussels and fries: Steamed in a saffron seafood broth, with garlic, shallots, bell peppers and Spanish chorizo ($15)
• Duck breast: Seared duck breast, served with Dauphinoise potatoes, mushroom duxelles and orange hoisin sauce ($16)

126-B Vintage Park Blvd.

Houston 832–843–7422

www.eatatallo.com

Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–9 p.m.,

Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.,

Sun. 11 a.m.–4 p.m.