When Do-Rite Barbecue’s director of operations, Lynn Metcalf, got her start in the barbecue industry years ago, she was not a fan of the classic Texas cuisine and even did a stint as a vegetarian. It is a testament to Do-Rite Barbecue’s menu, Metcalf said, that she is “crazy about [Do-Rite’s] brisket” today.

That brisket is the creation of pitmaster Francisco “Chano” Ortiz—a 20-year industry veteran—who Metcalf said is on a sacred mission.

“He’s been working with our owner seeking this divine brisket experience—the perfect amount of smoke flavor, the most beautiful bark,” Metcalf said.

Brisket is not the only star of the show. According to Metcalf, the Do-Rite staff takes pride in their spicy, pit-smoked turkey and sides. While Metcalf said many barbecue joints are too focused on labor-intensive meat preparation to offer varied side items, she said Do-Rite has made innovative sides a priority, with choices like creamy serrano-spiked spinach and mashed sweet potatoes.

Do-Rite, however, has had an evolving identity. The restaurant originally opened in 2015 as a satellite location of Stubb’s, the downtown Austin music venue and barbecue restaurant. After a trademark dispute over the Stubb’s name resulted in the separation of Stubb’s from its satellite locations in September 2018, Metcalf and others took on Do-Rite—named for a business that previously occupied Stubb’s downtown property—as an independent project, with the other former Stubb’s satellites under their wing.

The flagship location at Graceland has developed as a casual, family-friendly outdoor dining destination with a live music stage, playscapes for kids and a full-service bar for adults. After surpassing a year in business as Do-Rite this fall, Metcalf said she is starting to feel the business has transcended its origin story, and Do-Rite’s own “brand consciousness” is emerging in Austin.

“I think our product is at an arrival point of a really long process,” Metcalf said. “Even though we’re a young name, the staff that’s been working on this product has been intact for a long time.”

Metcalf said that in her view, no amount of menu innovation can compete with a seasoned staff making a great product.

“We are making just a super-prime, classic experience,” Metcalf said.