Restaurant smokes the competition

Michael and Asenette Hernandez were tired of working in the corporate world, so they decided to become their own bosses and "get the steak and not the crumbs," as Michael put it.

In 2007, the duo bought Woody's Bar-B-Que, named for the pitmaster who ran a restaurant there from the 1980s to the early 2000s. Michael tinkered with the recipes, and Asenette handled the customers and bookkeeping.

The business started gaining momentum, but the barbecue machine ground to a halt early on because of the recession. Things began picking up again, but the business was forced to change its name to Hays Co. Bar-B-Que & Catering because of a trademark issue.

"Good things come in disguise at times," Michael said. "We had to spend several thousand dollars to change our shirts, our wrap on our vehicles, our menus, our website and our signage, but the outcome was that we were able to get a fresh name."

Michael, Asenette, their son Michael Aaron, pitmaster Omar Serna and the other employees at the restaurant have taken the new name and run with it. The restaurant has gained a loyal following of regulars who come for the restaurant's brisket, sausage, turkey, ribs, homemade beans and more, Michael said. The meats are smoked over the course of 18 hours in wood-burning fire pits that can hold up to 25 racks of ribs.

In May, Hays Co. Bar-B-Que and Catering achieved one of the highest honors for pitmasters in Texas: a spot on Texas Monthly magazine's list of top barbecue joints in the state. It's the first establishment in Hays County to receive the honor and will be able to hold the title until 2018, when the next Top 50 list is released.

"We were already in the process of climbing, and that propelled us to a whole new level," Michael said.

For now the Hernandez family is content just being on the list, but when 2018 rolls around, Michael said he wants Hays Co. Bar-B-Que & Catering to be in one of the top four spots.

To keep pace with the growing demand, the restaurant has been adding staff and capacity. Gone are the days when Michael, Asenette and one more employee could run the entire show, Asenette said. The business now has 15 employees. In August, Michael and Asenette drove to Corpus Christi to pick up a pit that will allow them to cook 50 extra racks of ribs each day.

Since making the Texas Monthly list, business has been booming, so it seems natural that, just as it had before, the restaurant's momentum would once again come to a halt. In early 2013, it became apparent that the Hernandez family would not be able to purchase the land on which their business sat, so they decided to set up shop at 1612 S. I-35 in San Marcos in the former Texas Auto Center building. They hope to open the new location in mid-October and plan to build a new building on the site in the next two years.

Although they are leaving their home on Hunter Road where they have started to make a name for themselves, Michael and Asenette are again looking at the challenge as a positive development. The new place doubles the restaurant's space and will allow them to host live music, have outdoor seating and get a beer and wine permit, Michael said.

"Now we can get as much momentum as we want because now we have acreage that's ours. We're going to own it," he said.

Hays Co. Bar-B-Que & Catering, 2601 Hunter Road, San Marcos, 512-392-6000, www.hayscobbq.com, Hours: Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.– 8 p.m., Closed Sunday