Round Rock restaurant developing loyal following

The Deckhand Oyster Bar is hard to miss. Adorned with orange paint and custom artwork, the building stands out among its neighbors and can be easily spotted by I-45 commuters. Inside, the restaurant offers a relaxed atmosphere reminiscent of a classic beachside dining experience.

As with any restaurant, however, it is the food product that develops loyal customers and word-of-mouth business. The Deckhand Oyster Bar's motto is "we don't shuck around," and when it comes to delivering fresh oysters shucked by experts, the restaurant's tongue-in-cheek maxim is true to pass.

Deckhand Oyster Bar is the fruition of years of work for co-owners and brothers Lahn and Tarzan Saybounkam. According to Lahn, he and Tarzan have been shucking oysters since their early teens—more than six decades of combined experience.

"When we were young we shucked," Lahn said. "We have no other experience, so we have decided to shuck together."

The Saybounkam brothers have centered their restaurant on the oyster bar—a wraparound bar that allows patrons to sit down, drink and watch shuckers at work.

"[The oysters] are the bomb. They are so tasteful," said loyal Deckhand patron Martha Robles. "There is great service and ice-cold beer. This is the place we come to eat seafood."

In the early 1980s, the Saybounkam brothers took up commercial oyster fishing out of Rockport on the Gulf of Mexico. Eventually Tarzan was able to purchase his own boat and began catching and selling oysters to local restaurants. About the same time, Lahn relocated to Round Rock to learn the cooking side of the oyster business as a chef at the Pacific Star Restaurant and Bar.

The two brothers decided last year the time was right to come together and open their own restaurant.

"We've got the best oysters because we own the boat," Lahn said.

Aside from the classic half-shelled oysters, the Deckhand Oyster Bar offers several regional fish dishes. Diners are offered cooked oyster and mussel recipes along with crawfish, shrimp and crab dishes. Shellfish-wary customers can choose from catfish, flounder and snapper plates. The restaurant also offers daily specials.

Lahn's recipes fuse locally caught fish with spice and seasoning combinations brought over from Southeast Asia. The result is original dishes made with classic ingredients.

The staple that holds the restaurant in place and keeps customers returning, though, is the oysters. According to Lahn, during an average week, the restaurant goes through 6,000 fresh oysters, all caught and brought in from his brother's boat. The restaurant has done so well, according to Lahn, plans for expansion are already in the works.

"We are planning a second location in South Austin," Lahn said. "I never thought business would be this good. The support from the people in Round Rock has been awesome."

Oyster shucking 101

Oyster shucking is serious business. The Saybounkam brothers have spent a lifetime perfecting the craft of opening up their oysters for the world to enjoy. Caution is urged for anyone trying this at home. Remember to use heavy gloves as it is easy for inexperienced shuckers to cut themselves accidentally.

1. Insert oyster shucking knife between the two shell halves near the hinge.
2. Twist knife until you feel a slight pop.
3. Slide knife along the underside of the topshell in order to sever the muscles holding the shell closed.
4. Remove top shell and sever oyster from bottom shell using knife blade.
5. Serve chilled and enjoy.

Owner favorites

The Seared Salmon is the owner's top recommended dish. The salmon is seared and seasoned with lemon pepper and other seasonings and comes with choices of sides ($14.99).

The Catfish Coubion is the restaurant's top-selling entree. The fresh catfish filet comes cooked with spicy seasonings and topped with crawfish. Sides include fresh vegetables, rice and garlic bread ($14.99).

Deckhand Sauce is a spicy, homemade sauce for the Deckhand's oysters. Enjoy as much as you like at no charge.

Deckhand Oyster Bar, 500 Parker Drive, Round Rock, 368-3379, www.deckhandoysterbar.com

• Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
• Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
• Sun. 11 a.m.–9 p.m.