Restaurant offers 'Texas-style South Asian comfort food'

With its expansive beer selection, adventurous Indian-fusion food and assortment of everyday items, Whip In manager Dipak Topiwala said the store has carved out a distinctive niche at its I-35 location.

The Topiwala family took over Whip In in 1986. The business started as a gas station that sold basic convenience store items such as eggs and milk.

Despite being off I-35, Whip In did not make much money selling gasoline in its first years of business, according to Dipak, the Topiwalas' son who grew up to become the store's manager.

Meanwhile, there was an influx of import beers to the area, some of which the Whip In started carrying. Whip In was soon making more money selling import beers than it was gasoline, Topiwala said.

"[Dad] gave up the budget on gasoline and started buying import beers, and people started coming here for just that," he said. "People would tell each other they could get all the special beers at the Whip In."

Whip In now has one of the best selections of craft beers in Austin, Topiwala said. Including its taps, the store carries up to 700 different beers on a given day.

Topiwala spent his high school summers working at Whip In. In 2004, he returned to manage the store.

Topiwala implemented multiple changes when he became manager. Whip In had always had a seating and deli area, but he expanded it and put in a full kitchen.

After the full kitchen was installed, Topiwala's mother became the chef and served food from the Gujarat region of India, where she grew up. Most of the menu options were vegetarian- and vegan-based.

Whip In hired a new chef who has been expanding the recipes. Topiwala now describes the menu as "Texas-style South Asian comfort food."

"Our food always gets more interesting, funner and better, especially since we have the great auspices of a chef who has her skills honed on everything I've ever wanted," he said. "It's a dream in heaven for me."

Topiwala changed the store's license so Whip In could serve beer inside the store.

Topiwala also changed the convenience store-type items Whip In carries. Whip In still sells the usual candy and snacks, but they are high-quality and often organic products.

Whip In also has a large selection of sweets such as brownies and ice cream.

"What we carry is very focused," he said. "You don't need a large variety when the quality is already there."

Whip In offers live music multiple nights a week on its small, intimate stage. Topiwala said a new booking manager—Matt the Electrician—is focused on bringing in high quality acts, from jazz to bluegrass, that will fit the space.

Topiwala credited the neighborhood behind Whip In for helping keep the store in business for more than 20 years.

"The neighborhood back here has always been very favorable to what we have to offer," he said. "We're very appreciative of that."

Brewing its own beer

After selling hundreds of beers from dozens of breweries, Whip In aims to start serving its own beer.

Manager Dipak Topiwala said Whip In is expecting to receive a license within the next few months that will let the store brew and sell its own beer inside the store.

Topiwala said Whip In will initially focus on brewing two kinds of beer, an English-style and Belgian-style ale.

"I know what I want, and I have people who know how to get there," he said.

The beers will be strong, unique and have about 10 percent alcohol by volume. For comparison, a Coors Light has a 4.2 percent ABV.

After Whip In receives its brewpub license, the Whip In beers will join the store's 72 taps. Whip In will continue to have a happy hour from 3 to 7 p.m.

Unique dishes

Martine Pelegrin, the head chef of Whip In, is focused on "Whip Indianizing" comfort-food classics. Here is a taste of the unique dishes she is cooking at Whip In.

The goat sliders are served on house-made naan bread along with homemade mustard sauce and hand-cut fries. The local, organic goat is cooked with roasted jalapeo and feta cheese.

The "Indjun" chicken-fried steak is served with a fresh garlic and coconut milk gravy. The dish uses organic meat.

The South Asian Frito Pie features Bastrop Cattle Co. beef and Lonestar Beer chili curry on a bed of Fritos, plus organic black bean masala, Monterey Jack cheddar cheese, sour cream and cilantro chutney.

Whip In, 1950 S. I-35, 442-5337, www.whipin.com, Twitter: @whipin