Citrus Bistro

Nanou, a Dubai native who spent time in France and Ibiza before she came to Texas, perched on a stool in the bar at the new Colleyville location on a quiet morning and talked about the genesis of the restaurant. Nearby, the chef and Schyns worked with a client who was having an event catered.

Didier, she said, is one of five children, three of whom are chefs. The family originated in Normandy and Didier grew up in Paris.

The shift to the U.S. came about 30 years ago, she said, when his parents moved to Texas so his father could work as a private chef.

Later, the father asked Didier—who was working at a restaurant in Belgium—to join him.

He worked as a pastry chef in Dallas, and was at Pompano Seafood in Dallas when the owner asked her husband to take over the business. It became Citrus Bistro.

Nanou said the Dallas space was tiny and BYOB. When the lease expired, Didier decided he wanted more, so they looked for space and found what they wanted in Colleyville.

Schyns, who had been a regular diner at the original Citrus Bistro, joined them as a partner managing the business end of the operation.

The new location has a full bar, spaces for meetings and private events and a covered patio.

Including the private rooms, Citrus Bistro will seat more than 100.

The menu remains largely the same as it was in Dallas, Nanou said, except for the addition of a few appetizers.

For dinner, entree prices range from $22.95 for Pecan Crusted Tilapia with Ginger Beurre Blanc to $62.95 for Surf & Turf 8 oz. Filet and 1 lbs. Lobster.

Viriot ventures into regional flavors with Blackened Red Fish with Crawfish, Sausage and Beurre Blanc Sauce ($31.95) and Grilled Walu with Mango Salsa ($32.95).

Soups include Brie Soup and Charleston She Crab Soup (both $4.95/cup, $6.25/bowl).

Appetizers start at $11.95 for Steak Tartare and also include Grade A Ahi Tuna and Walu Carpaccio ($12.95).

The lobster comes live from a tank at the front of the restaurant. Seafood is flown in three times a week from Hawaii and other locations.

For lunch, entrees start in the $13 range and include a few sandwiches along with crab cakes and other seafood.

Schyns said they plan to bring in live music—light rock, country, jazz, blues, Spanish guitar.

The patio is a happy surprise off the main dining room.

Diners there face a sea of dense green, thanks to the mature trees that grow all across that side of the building.

A sweet story

One of the most popular dishes at Citrus Bistro is the Medjool Date Cake, ($7.95) a creation from Nanou Viriot's home country of Dubai.

Her grandmother's cake recipe creates a dessert that is dense, not too sweet and served warm with a sauce made of crme fraiche, brown sugar and butter plus a dollop of whipped cream.

Nanou said she first prepared it in the U.S. for a friend's Thanksgiving dinner. The next year, the friends demanded it again and then insisted she get it on the menu at the restaurant.

And a year after that, customers were ordering whole cakes for Thanksgiving, at $55 a cake.

"I love to cook," said Nanou. "I cannot say I'm a chef, but I'm a good cook."

Citrus Bistro

5005 Colleyville Blvd., Ste. 240, Colleyville, 817-281-6282, www.citrusbistro.com

Open 11-2 for lunch and 5-10 p.m. for dinner Mon.-Sat; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for brunch Sun. Happy hour, 4-7 p.m.

Mon.-Fri.