Stella Southern Cafe was never supposed to be a breakfast hotspot, but thanks to a landlord’s request and community enthusiasm for biscuits and grits, a different kind of restaurant took shape, rooted in Southern hospitality and the spirit of a beloved pick-up truck.
“Mom always said that breakfast was the most important meal of the day, and I hope that means there is a huge opportunity to start someone’s day off with a positive impact,” owner and head chef Michael Lair said. “We like to say that we are a hospitality company that just happens to serve great food.”
The backstory
At its inception, Michael envisioned Stella as a Southern market and deli, but pivoted after strong community interest and his landlord’s one stipulation for becoming a tenant: The restaurant had to serve breakfast.
Michael and his parents, Pete and Phyllis, opened Stella’s doors July 28, 2018. The Lair Family has deep roots in the College Station dining scene. They owned and operated the hamburger establishment Harvey Washbangers from 1999 until it was destroyed in a fire in 2025.
Since then, they have devoted their energy and expertise to serving up breakfast favorites to the community, such as New Orleans-style beignets, seasonal French toasts and, of course, homemade biscuits. The restaurant is committed to honoring tradition and “doing things the old-fashioned way,” Michael said.
“In fact, that attitude is why we don’t have a microwave in our restaurant,” he said. “It is why we only serve old school stone ground grits, and we squeeze 100% of every glass of orange juice on site.”
What's in a name
As for the name, “Stella,” it does not come from a family member or even a pet, but rather a beloved 1995 Dodge Dakota that Michael drove for 16 years, he said. The name “Stella” is meant to evoke the same reliability as its namesake, as well as the hope that the restaurant will stand the test of time and help create memories for its customers. What Michael did not expect, he said, was exactly how widely relatable Stella’s namesake would be.
“Everybody has a similar story about their own ‘old blue,’ or whatever they called that special car or truck in their lives, and so it has grown into a topic that I spend tons of time talking about with tables,” Michael said.
Why it matters
Connecting with and supporting the local community is at the forefront of Stella’s operations, he said. From sourcing local ingredients when possible to outreach efforts, such as when the Lairs set up a donation system for those who lost their homes in Hurricane Harvey, and even cooked hot meals for displaced families.
“What gets us out of bed in the morning is the desire to offer genuine hospitality every day,” Michael said. “And whether you just came in to grab a quick cup of coffee or you’re gathering with friends because something tragic has happened, we count it a blessing to be able to be a part of those moments, big and small.”
